Elbrus Climb

Introduction

At 5642m Elbrus is the highest point of Europe. This expedition offers a taste of high altitude mountaineering and cultural experience. The region is a stunning place to visit with a fascinating mixture of European and Asian cultures.

The Caucasus Mountains stretch for 900 kilometers, from the Black Sea to the Caspian and form the physical barrier dividing Europe and Asia. On the south (Asian) side are the states of Georgia and Azerbaijan and on the north (European) side the republics of Northern Ossetia and Kabardino Balkar. The twin summits of Elbrus are about 11 km North of the Main Range. The Main Range forms a state border between Russia and Georgia. Both countries are parts of former USSR, but now are firmly independent states.

On the expedition you will gain height gradually and acclimatise on local walks and the nearby training peaks. This will give you the opportunity of attaining a further Caucasian summit as well as Elbrus. Once acclimatised, our route follows sweeping snow slopes to the col between Elbrus' twin summits. We ascend the steepening slopes to the West Peak; this is the true summit of Europe's highest mountain.

In the Caucasus the snowline is higher than in the Alps. The higher altitudes are extensively glaciated, though generally less complex than the Alps. Consequently Elbrus is a popular mountain, being mainly a straightforward glacier climb. The principal hazards are high altitude (which we prepare for as fully as possible, with training climbs and walks in the Baksan valley), and poor weather, for which we have built in a spare day to give more flexibility. Climbers will need to be familiar with the use of crampons and ice axe, although ski poles will be generally more useful than an ice axe.

Difficulty: Challenging

Duration: expedition

Quick Facts

Fourteen day trip
The highest mountain in Europe
Includes several warm-up and acclimatisation adventures
Optional days to explore Moscow and St Petersburg
Accommodation in hotels in the valley, and in huts on the mountain

Typical Itinerary

This is a 14 day course, which, with two optional days at the beginning and end, make up a sixteen day trip - in the country. We run the course over this duration because it provides the best chances (weather, acclimatisation, fitness) to maximise your summit chances.

The aim of the course is to further your climbing skills and complete your acclimatisation during the first week and then use a suitable weather window during the second to climb the main objective: the highest point in Europe.

A typical tour itinerary may look like this:

Day	Activity
Day 1	Arrive and check in at your accommodation in Moscow
Optional Day	Chance to explore the cultural attractions of Moscow: the Kremlin, Red Square, Lenin's Mausoleum and Arbat Street, with guide
Day 2	Fly to Mineralny Vody. Early flight, which offers good views of the twin peaks of Elbrus. Then by road for 4 hours to hotel in the Baksan valley, our base for the duration of the trip
Days 3-7	Acclimatisation walks and climbs around the Baksan Valley. Smaller valleys lead off from Baksan, giving access to some beautiful peaks in the shadow of Elbrus. We start with walks, then tackle peaks. Instruction in the use of crampon and ice axe will be given on a nearby glacier. Return to the hotel each day to sleep and to sample Caucasian cuisine - and perhaps a little vodka
Day 8	Move on to Elbrus. A short bus ride takes us to the cable car and chair lift, which we use to arrive at the Barrels (large Nissan-huts), where we spend several nights acclimatising and getting ready for the climb. In the afternoon, we go on to the glacier near the Barrels for additional ice axe and crampon practice. For further acclimatisation, we may walk to the site of the Priutt Refuge, which can be reached in 1-1½ hours, and return to the Barrels for the evening
Day 9	Hike to 5,000m. To assist acclimatisation, we climb up to and beyond the Pastuhov Rocks (c.5,000m) for some fabulous views, including the famous peak Ushba, the Matterhorn of the Caucasus
Day 10	Ascent of Mount Elbrus (5,642m). Set off from the Barrels very early, pre-dawn, and begin our climb to the highest point of Europe. We may use a snow-cat, if available to drive to the height of the Priutt Refuge. From here, it is a long, steady climb up to Sedlowina Saddle, the col between the two peaks of Elbrus. From the saddle, a steep snow slope leads 200m to the crater rim (Elbrus is an extinct volcano). This is the hardest part of the climb. We follow the crater rim easily to reach a small summit pyramid about 9 hours after leaving the Barrels. We should be rewarded with a fine view of the Caucasus mountain range from the summit. After the climb, we descend to the Barrels and, if time permits, down to the Baksan Valley
Day 11	Spare Summit Day. We have allowed a spare day to give us the flexibility with acclimatization and weather and optimize our chances of summit success. Should we climb the mountain on Day 10 then we will have a more leisurely return to our Baksan valley base
Day 12	Return to Baksan Valley. We return to our hotel base to celebrate the climb
Day 13	Fly to Moscow or St Petersburg. We drive to Mineralny Vody from where we fly to Moscow or St Petersburg
Optional Day	Sightseeing in Moscow or St Petersburg. St Petersburg is brimming with cultural interest. The city does much to dispel preconceived notions of grim Russian cities and dour people! In the evening we will go out for a farewell dinner
Day 14	Fly Moscow or St Petersburg - London. We will be taken to the airport for our flight back to London

Please note: This itinerary is a guide only. It can be subject to change dependent upon viability, course members' fitness, weather conditions or for any other reason the guide may deem necessary.

Course Requirements

Elbrus is considered to be a suitable introductory expedition for fit trekkers and climbers. It is a good primer from which to progress on to easier peaks of the Greater Ranges. To join the Elbrus expeditions and have a good chance of reaching the summit, it is advantageous that you have some experience of walking in crampons with an ice axe in winter conditions. Keen walkers with a good level of fitness however regularly reach the summit.

We recommend that you follow a fitness plan in preparation for your challenge, an example of one will be sent to you when you have confirmed your booking.

Although the fitness plan we will send to you has been devised by a fitness professional, this is only provided as a guide and you should seek professional advice before starting your own fitness regime.

Visas

A Russian visa usually takes 7-10 working days to process. You will need an invitation letter and voucher from our Russian agent to support your application. These will be sent to you approximately 2-3 months prior to departure.

The Region

Expeditions to Elbrus have now resumed but it must be understood the Foreign Office Advice is to avoid travel to this region.

If you decide to participate in an Elbrus Expedition you must understand you are travelling against Foreign Office advice and accept the risk and any consequence. Maximum Adventure, by running this expedition does not overrule Foreign Office advice.

For more information please visit the Foreign Office. Website: http://www.fco.gov.uk

Dates

The season for this trip is between May and September, with the best conditions in July and August.

Please call us on 017683 71289 to register your interest and discuss dates with us directly.

Create Your Own Trip Dates

Price and Inclusions

2012 Price:

What's included:

All internal flights and hotel/airport transfers
Hotel accommodation in Moscow and/or St Petersburg
Hotel accommodation in the Baksan Valley
All road transport by private vehicles
All camping facilities and meals during the expedition
All porterage costs
All costs for Maximum Adventure accredited leader, local Russian guides and local helpers.