The Old Man of Hoy

The Old Man of Hoy needs little introduction; its iconic standing makes it the reason that climbers go to Orkney. The first ascent of this 137 metre tall sea stack by Chris Bonnington, Tom Patey and Rusty Bailllie was filmed for television in the 1960's, and it has also drawn names such as Catherine Destivelle, who made a solo ascent in the 1990's. The stack consists of weather worn Orcadian sandstone and stands on a granite plinth.

The Old Man provides a serious five pitch climb with an awkward abseil descent, in the remote and spectacular Orkney Islands off the north east tip of Scotland. Just getting to Hoy is an experience in itself and should be enjoyed along with the climb.

In terms of experience, you should be leading comfortably at VS (very severe) 4b on multi-pitch routes. Some indoor climbers leading at 6a+ on overhanging wall routes may also find this trip within their capabilities, though should attend a pre-trip climbing course with Maximum Adventure to review their skills' suitability for the outdoors.

• Experience - Experienced climbers only; your abseiling skills should also be good. See course requirements for more details.

Typically the course will be run over a weekend, with arrival at Hoy on the Friday evening and departure from the Isle on Sunday evening; however, as you will be making your own way to the Islands then you may arrive or leave at your leisure around the instruction dates. If you would like to be guided mid-week, then please enquire about other dates.

The weather conditions are important for an attempt on the Old Man, as climbing wet sandstone is not recommended; we run this package with two guiding days included.

You will arrive at Rackwick Bay, the site of the Old Man of Hoy, the evening before the first day of your course and meet up with your instructor for a briefing and to go through kit.

The climb will take place on one of the following days, depending on weather forecast and conditions. This climb is an epic experience; however with Hoy being so far north and therefore blessed with long daylight hours in the summer, fitness is often the only limiting factor as to how long you take on the stack.

You have several options: the quickest but most expensive is by air, the slowest by road and you can also combine the two.

• Flying all the way - Fly to Inverness, from London Gatwick, Luton, Bristol or Belfast then on from Inverness to Orkney. All details of the various flight options can be found at  www.visitorkney.com . Taxis are available on all of the islands to move you to various ferry terminals.

There are a number of options when you reach Rackwick Bay.

There is a free Bothy that has very basic facilities, as well as a hostel that charges around £10 per person per night, or you can take a tent and camp.

You should treat the stay on Hoy as you would if you were going camping and take your own food and drink. Rackwick Bay is at the opposite end of the Island from the only shops, where supplies can be bought.

It is possible to call for a taxi that will take you to and from the nearest pub, the Hoy Inn, which serves lunch and dinner.

Although most of the climbing is at grade 4b, the crux pitch is 5b and this means that you should be leading comfortably at VS (very severe) 4b on multi-pitch routes. Some indoor climbers leading at 6a+ on overhanging wall routes may also find this trip within their capabilities, though should attend a pre-trip climbing course with Maximum Adventure to review their skills suitability for the outdoors.

In either case it is important that the abseil technique is fully understood as the descent from the top of the stack is not without its own challenges.

Original (or East Face) Route E1 5b

The first pitch is relatively straightforward, ascending sound, easy-angled rock. Next is a climb up the shattered pillar, rising from the boulder bridge, up to a large ledge known as The Gallery.

The second, and crux pitch, involves down-climbing a short way before traversing right onto the east face and into a big corner crack. From there, the climb follows up on small and indistinct holds to reach a belay in a triangular niche on the right at the top.

A short third pitch meanders over some ledges before returning to the crack-line. This is followed by pitch four, which takes in the wall on the right of the belay ledge, aiming for the base of the final corner.

Pitch five involves a long corner; near the top the crack is split right through.

Getting off the stack is nearly as complicated as making the climb, involving a series of long abseils to the base of the stack. Probably the most awkward point is getting over the large overhanging section on pitch two. All told, the Old Man provides a very complete day out.

This course can be completed anytime from April until the end of October. Periods of settled weather are preferable in order to minimise the risk of wet conditions. Mid-summer provides long daylight hours that give you a great chance of completing the climb.

This trip is available for individuals and pairs.

You can request the date for when you want to take part in the trip by clicking on the link below. These will then be advertised here.

• Group first aid with qualified first aiders.

2011 price - £295 per person (based on two people booking)

£495 per person (based on one person booking)

For 2012 trips, 2011 prices will apply if booked before 2012 prices are released.